Alienids

In spirit, the Genestealers are closest to Ridley Scott’s Aliens. Physically, however, the metal Hormagaunts are a better match. When a friend gave me some metal Hormagaunts I decided to do something a bit different with them rather than painting them up as part of my existing tyranid swarm.
The painting regimen I used was based on one I found here


1. Figures were first undercoated in black. Acrylic spray paint from the local Car Accessory shop and touch ups with MP Black Primer.
2. Figures were drybrushed/overbrushed with Tamiya Nato Black, a very useful very dark grey colour.
3. I wanted my figures to have a greenish tint, so I overbrushed the upper surfaces with Tamya Dark Green.
4. Upper areas were brushed with GW Codex Grey, although I suspect most light greys would have done as well.
5. Models were lightly brushed with GW Mithril Silver, making sure the claws and teeth were picked out.
6. Figures will now look very light and probably not how you wanted them. The next step is to paint them with neat or lightly diluted Black Ink. I used MP Black Ink for this.
7. Once the ink is dry pick out the claws and teeth with Mithril Silver on a fine brush.
8. Give your Alienids a gloss coat. I used GW ‘Ardcote Spray for this and painted bits I missed with Humbrol Enamel Gloss Varnish.
My first batch of figures came out much darker than I planned, but I liked the look of them still. I suggest if you use the above method you use diluted Black Ink initially. You can always take you figure darker with additional coats if you want. For my second batch of Alienids I used several shades of green for stage 3, but decided I liked them darker like the other figures, so the difference is very subtle.

Alienids

Alienids

Owner: Uncle Phil

Alienids

Alienids

Owner: Uncle Phil

My first batch turned out so well I decided to try a couple of figures even closer to the Alien.
1. I took the head and body components of unassembled Hormagaunts and filled the eyes in with ready-made putty. This is just All Purpose Filler from a Hardware store. It comes in a big tub for a fiver and you can add water to it to make it more free flowing. Useful stuff to have an ideal for filling in gaps on slottabases.
2. The arms of the Aliens are from the current plastic Genestealer sprue. These end in a ball fitting so decide what position you want them on and cut this part with sprue cutters so you have a flat surface. Joins of plastic to metal are always vulnerable, so either pin these parts together or do what I did. Roll a small ball of tissue and cram it into the arm socket. Apply superglue and press the plastic arm into position. Superglue can be temperamental sticking to certain things but readily sticks to tissue. This is a good trick for joining metal parts together too.
3. The bodies have a notch in their back where the second pair of tyranid arms fit. I was going to leave this since it gave the model an Alien-like arched back pose. Once the undercoat was on it looked too deep, so I applied some modeling putty. I added too much putty and ended up sculpting it into a continuation of the projections on Alien’s spine. Treat this section to your own taste.
4. To provide additional strength I painted the joins of the arms to the body and my sculpted section with Black enamel paint.
5. Figures were then painted as described above.

Alienids

Alienids

Owner: Uncle Phil

Alienids

Alienids

Owner: Uncle Phil

Now, where are those marines.....

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