How to paint Mummies the Uncle Phil Way.

        Using this method you can easily turn out one or more figures in little over an hour.

Step 1. Take your figure and remove any mould lines or flash. This is important since the following painting method will really show up mould lines. I find a round needle file the best tool for this job.

Step 2. Give the figure a white undercoat. This often makes any mould lines you missed more visible so don’t be afraid to use the file once again and paint over the bare metal or plastic.

Step 3. Take some GW Graveyard Earth and add some water so that it is free flowing. Paint this over your figure and you will see that capillary action causes most of it to collect between the bandages. You should end up with brownish-white bandages and darker bits in between.

Step 4. While your wash of Graveyard Earth is drying you need to make “Skeleton Mix”, so called since I came across it in an article on how to paint Skeletons by Mike McVey. For Skeleton Mix make a mixture of Brown Ink:Yellow Ink:Water in the proportions 2:2:1. I use GW inks for this. An eyedropper such as a Pastette is very useful for these sort of jobs if you have access to them. While you are raiding the lab supplies pocket a small plastic bottle such as a Bijou. You will find it useful to make up a small quantity of your Skeleton Mix keep it in the Bijou ready to use.

Step 5. Take your mummy and paint him with Skeleton Mix. You’ll find that due to capillary action the mix tends to flow into the gaps between the bandages. Put your figure to one side and give the ink time to dry fully. You may notice that a few mould lines appear again! File these off, apply a bit more paint and then paint over with Skeleton mix.
        You now need to decide whether to drybrush your figure. For some mummies this is not necessary and you can jump straight to Step 7.



Owner: Uncle Phil

        I drybrushed one Heroquest Mummy (left) and didn’t do the other and there is little to choose for them.
Big Mummy

Big Mummy

Owner: Uncle Phil

In fact I slightly prefer the non-drybrushed version.
        On the other hand drybrushing seemed a better option for mummies with narrower bandages or my Mummy Giant (right).

Step 6. DryBrushing. If you decide to drybrush wait till the ink is fully dry. Watered ink sometimes takes much longer to dry than simple acrylic paint. The secret to drybrushing that most articles omit to mention is to use a large, slightly stiff brush. Games Workshop sell a flat brush and a pointed brush specifically for drybrushing and these are worth acquiring. If you can only afford one get the big flat one first.
        Dip the tip of your brush in GW Bleached Bone, wipe off the excess on the rim of the pot, wipe off more paint on a paper tissue and then brush lightly across the surface of the your figure. You’ll find you only need to do this a little, since you want to coat the raised surfaces of the bandages but leave the ink between them below.

Step 7. Flesh. Now that you have finished the bandages it is time to paint the other parts of the mummy. Mummies usually have part of their faces uncovered, and bare flesh may also poke through the bandages at the fingers, toes, elbow and knee joints and the shoulders. I chose to give my mummies dark blue flesh. Brown doesn’t give as nice a contrast and green looks too wet and squishy for a mummy.
        First paint the exposed flesh parts in Tamiya German Grey. Then paint them with Tamiya Field Blue, leaving a little of the dark grey showing at the edges. I then painted the flesh in Tamiya Medium Blue, again leaving a little of the darker blue showing at the edges. Finally I added a few highlights with MP Blue-Grey. This is quite a light blue but this does work. Since acrylic paint dries so fast you can probably get all of the flesh colours painted on in about 20mins.

Mirliton Mummy

Mirliton Mummy

Owner: Uncle Phil

Step 8. The Eyes. Sometime during your painting you have to decide what to do about the mummy’s eyes. This really depends on your personal tastes and the sculpt that you are painting. Some models look good with empty dark eye sockets, others look better with the eyes painted in.
        If I’m painting in the eyes I’ll do it after the German Grey stage. I use Revel Ferrari Red for the eyes (what used to be called Post Office Red). This is a gloss paint but is also enamel, so takes sometime to dry. Painted into the eye sockets this does not pose a problem and by the time you get to the highlighting stage the paint has sufficiently set that you can black ink the mummy with little worries.

Step 9. Black Ink. I use MP Black Ink for this stage. While coloured inks add colour, Black Ink does several other things. It adds shadow, makes the model look a bit dirtier and more realistic and fills in any little gaps you missed.
        Take a little dab of ink and add a few Millilitres of water. You want a sort of dark grey dirty water look when you brush it on a white surface. If you are new to Black Inking go slightly lighter than you think you need. Adding a flake of soap to the Ink/Water mix will help it flow better and reduce the chances of it pooling and drying wrong. Brush over the Mummy and allow to dry. After 5 to 10mins give the figure a shake to remove excess ink and give it a look over to ensure the ink is not forming drops in places you don’t want it to.
        More on Black Inking.

Step 10. Base. All you need to do is finish your base. I prefer an uncluttered, neutral base that shows off the model, so usually just paint it with MP Mid-Grey. Many other modelers prefer to paint the base, paint it with PVA (Woodworking) glue and coat it in various materials. Given it is a Mummy I suppose a sprinkle of sand is appropriate.

Big MummyBig MummyMirliton MummyMummiesMummy RaiderReaper Mummies

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