Cheddarmongers

My basic routine is:-

Paint your vehicle and admire your handywork for a few minutes, since you are about to muck up that nice paint job you spent so long on.

Wear. Lightly drybrush the vehicle with a silver colour to pick out edges and rivet heads etc. Remember that the front of a vehicle will impact branches and stuff, so there will be more wear here and possibly horizontal scratches on the sides.

Black Ink your model. With figures black inking is often one of the final stages that I do, but with vehicles it comes earlier in the process, before you add the dust and mud.

Dust. Vehicles moving cross country will throw up lots of dust. Most of this will settle on the top of features and the vehicle, although a little will adhere to the sides. For this stage I lightly drybrush the upper surfaces and the sides with GW Bleached Bone.

Mud. Once the dust (and more importantly your drybrush) is dry, start on the mud. Mud will obviously be all over the tracks and running gear. It will also be splattered around these areas and up the lower parts of the vehicle. I aim to keep the mud about a third of the way up the vehicle, rising to a little higher towards the rear and on the back.

Drybrush first with GW Bestial Brown. Let that dry, then drybrush over this with GW Snakebite Leather. Then brush over this with GW Bleached Bone. These three colours are quite good for mud, since they are distinct from any colours I'm likely to use for cammo schemes.

A friend of mine swears by codex grey for weathering, so I tried this on the Grey Knight Pilgrim between the Snakebite and Bleached Bone stage. I'm not too certain I like this, but trying it on a Silver vehicle might not have been the best choice. It may work much better on other vehicles. Dwarf flesh has also been suggested for small patches of semi-dry mud

Here are a selection of vehicles, camouflaged for a range of environments but all weathered using the same scheme described above.